The Post and Rail Fence Calculator has the following functions:
A Post and Rail Fence (aka Split Rail Fence) is a basic wood fence with vertical posts and rows of rails. A split rail fence is a type of rustic fencing commonly found in rural and natural settings. It's characterized by its simple, unadorned design, consisting of horizontal wooden rails that are typically split or hewn from logs. These rails are supported by vertical posts, which are also often made of wood.
Split rail fences are used for various purposes, including marking property boundaries, containing livestock (although it may not be as secure as other types of fences), and for aesthetic reasons, especially in more rural or natural settings. They are also valued for their durability and low maintenance requirements, as they tend to weather well over time.
It is easy to compute the number of posts and split rails based on the standard length of the rail and the overall length of the fence. The posts are separated (PS) by the standard length of the rails. The number of rails are a function of the number of rows of rails and the overall length of the fences.
The most common woods used in split rail fences include:
Remember that the availability of these woods may vary depending on your location, and local preferences and resources can influence which type of wood is commonly used for split rail fences in a particular area. Additionally, some woods may be treated with preservatives to enhance their durability and resistance to decay. If you're considering a split rail fence, it's a good idea to consult with a local fencing professional who can advise you on the best wood options for your specific circumstances.
Post Material: It is wise to consider that posts are in direct contact with the ground. This makes them exposed to prolonged moisture, fungus, rot and ground born insects (e.g. termites). Post should be chosen wisely. Most suppliers have considered these issues and wood fence posts from farm supply stores are pressure treated for long life. However, one can cut their own post from well established and durable woods such as locust. In this case, treatment to the part of the post below ground level should be considered to extend the life of the posts. (MORE INFORMATION IS WANTED HERE FROM EXPERIENCED DIYers.)
Some of the most permanent posts are made of steel reinforced concrete. These posts have a very long life span are normally impervious to ground-born degradation. However, they are typically much more expensive (and heavy) than wood posts.
Post Holes: The posts for a fence define the location of the fence. Hence the placement and spacing of the post holes are very important. A common practice is to set the corner points of the fencing area and then to align the post holes to be directly in line at even spacing between the corners. Some will perform this task by visually lining up the holes one at a time. Others use strings suspended between the corner posts. Others use lasers to ensure a straight line between the corners.
Digging post holes is hard work if done manually. A post-hole digger (pictured to the right), a digging iron and a narrow spade are essential in any significant fencing job. These are also useful if a mechanical device is employed to dig the holes. There are gas (petrol) powered post-hole diggers with large augers for digging hole, and there are post-hole digger attachments for the PTO of the typical tractor. This later tool has sever things in its favor. First, the tractor caries the tool to and from the work site. Second, the tractor's three point hitch is used to lift and lower the augur. Finally, gravity assists the tractor in lining the holes vertically.
The post holes must be dug to a consistent and appropriate depth. Failure to maintain a consistent depth in the post holes will make the fencing horizontally wavy, rising and falling. The appropriate depth of the hole is a) deep enough to provide vertical strength to the fence, and b) deep enough to go below the frost line in the winter (in locations that have freezing). To maintain constant depth, the hole digger must established the desired depth and partially refile the hole if the depth is overreached. A good practice is to use an aggregate (e.i. gravel or other crushed stone) to partially refill the hole. This does several things. It provides a good base to the post that won't compact, and it provides a porous layer for water to perk away from the post base after a rain. It is a mistake to pour a concrete base because it can trap water around the post.
Once the post holes are dug, the posts can be installed. Installation of the posts is typically done by placing the post in the hole, confirming the depth (one last time), and then back-filling around the post while maintaining a vertical posture. This is easily done by the use of a common level. The back-fill is often the soil removed in digging the hole. In which case, the soil should be tamped (compressed) as it is put in the hole around the post. However, the back-fill can also be concrete if added mass, stiffness and strength is deemed necessary. Some will use mixed concrete or simply use dry mix concrete. In the latter case, the concrete is cured with moisture (water) drawn from the surrounding soil.
The Post and Rail (split-rail) Pricing table contains recent fence prices for a variety of fence components with prices from Lowes, Home Depot, Menards and potentially other stores based on their web sites. The prices are in U.S. dollars.
The most recent split-rail fence price survey information is:
CAUTION: The pricing information provided is for calculating convenience with NO implied guarantees to the accuracy of the values listed. Authoritative sources should be sought to confirm any value before risking health or wealth on the veracity of the data. Furthermore, Calc gives no guarantee that you will be able to buy products at listed prices or even if they will be available. The data provided is purely a convenience for making estimates, so we repeat, ALWAYS use local pricing and authoritative specifications.